If you’ve ever worked on a job site that’s 30+ feet high, odds are an articulated boom lift was there to get the crew to that tricky spot. As someone who’s supplied these machines for years, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten calls from new (or even experienced) operators panicking about transport. Moving an artic boom lift isn’t just hooking it to a truck and hitting the road—mess this up, and you’re looking at dents, broken parts, or even a hefty fine from the DOT. Let me break this down like I do for my regular clients, no stuffy jargon, just what actually works. Articulated Boom Lift
First off, let’s get one thing straight: an artic boom isn’t your average lawnmower trailer load. It’s 20,000+ pounds, has that big extendable arm, and the whole thing’s designed to work in tight spaces—not get hauled on the highway like a small forklift. The first step? Prep the lift before you even think about fire up the tow truck. I see so many people skip this, and it bites them every time. Here’s the quick checklist I give every renter or buyer I work with: Shut the engine off, obviously—don’t want it turning on mid-transport. Then, fold that bad boy up. Not just the arm, all of it. Some lifts have a manual override for when the battery dies, make sure you use that to get the arm fully retracted and secured. Next, lower the platform all the way down, and lock all the hydraulic joints. Those hoses and cylinders aren’t made to bounce around for 100 miles. One little loose joint can leak fluid all over your truck, or worse, snap something on the highway. Also, disconnect any accessories—like that extra LED light you mounted on the arm, or the cooler someone left in the platform. Those become projectiles at 60 mph. I once had a client forget his work boots in the platform; they flew out, hit a semi’s windshield, and cost way more than the lift’s transport fee to fix. Don’t be that guy.
Now, choosing the right tow vehicle. You can’t pull a 25,000-pound artic boom with a half-ton pickup and a regular trailer. Sorry, but that’s a recipe for disaster. Most of the lifts I supply need a gooseneck trailer or a flatbed with a heavy-duty winch, and a 3/4-ton or 1-ton diesel truck. Why diesel? Torque. Gas engines just don’t have enough low-end power to pull that much weight up hills, or even get moving from a stop on a ramp. Also, check your truck’s towing capacity—don’t go by what your friend’s truck pulls. Look at the manufacturer’s rating, add 20% as a buffer, because roads are never perfectly flat, and you’ve got to stop sometimes. I’ve seen guys try to use their F-150 for a small 1,500-lb scissor lift, let alone an artic boom. It’s not worth risking your safety, or ruining your truck’s transmission.
Securing the lift is probably the most important part, and this is where most people go wrong. A lot of folks just tie it down with a couple of ratchet straps on the front wheels and call it good. No. Artic booms have two axles, plus the arm sticking out—you need to distribute the weight evenly, and tie down every point that could move. First, use at least four straps, minimum 2-inch width, rated for the full weight of the lift. Don’t use old, frayed straps from the garage—those snap. I keep a stack of new 5,000-lb rated straps in my truck for last-minute jobs. Attach the straps to the lift’s rated tie-down points—every artic boom has them, marked with a little metal tab that says “tie here.” Never tie to the arm, never tie to the hydraulic cylinders, never tie to any plastic or metal trim. Those points aren’t built to hold that weight. Then, make sure the straps are tight, but not too tight. If you bend the frame of the lift because you over-tightened, that’s a hidden damage that’ll show up when you try to use it next time. Also, don’t forget to secure the rear—sometimes the back end can lift if you’re going up a hill, so add a couple more straps on the rear frame. Pro tip: Put a couple of d-rings on the flatbed if your trailer doesn’t have them—they’re cheap, and make tying down way easier.
Wait, what about the height? Artic booms are tall when the arm is up, but when folded, they’re usually around 8 to 10 feet. That’s important because most overpasses have a 12-foot clearance, but some low bridges in small towns are only 10 feet. Double-check the folded height of your specific lift before you hit the road. I once had a client transport a 40-foot artic boom, forgot to measure the folded height, and hit a overpass that was 11 feet tall. Totaled the arm, and cost him $12,000 in repairs. Don’t do that. Also, check the width—most artic booms are 8 feet wide, which is legal for most roads, but some state highways have a 7-foot width limit. A quick call to your state’s DOT office will save you a ticket.
Now, driving the load. Even if you’ve been towing a camper for years, towing an artic boom is different. It’s heavier, less maneuverable, and stopping takes way longer. Leave 3 times the following distance you usually do—if you normally stay 2 seconds behind the car in front, make it 6. Because if a deer jumps out, or the car in front stops short, you can’t slam on your brakes without flipping the trailer or damaging the lift. Also, avoid sudden turns. Artic booms have a larger turning radius than regular trucks, so take turns wide. Don’t cut through small neighborhood streets that are too narrow for a truck and trailer—you’ll get stuck, and might scratch the lift or a fence. And for the love of all that’s holy, don’t speed. The speed limit for heavy loads is usually 55 mph, and even if you’re on the interstate, going over that makes the straps loosen, and the lift bounce. I’ve had drivers tell me they can go 70, but I always say stick to 55. It takes a little longer, but you get to your job site in one piece.
What if you don’t have your own tow truck or trailer? That’s totally fine. A lot of my customers don’t want to invest in heavy-duty equipment, so they hire a professional transport company. But when you hire someone, don’t just go with the cheapest option. Ask them how much experience they have moving artic boom lifts. If they can’t show me a photo of them moving the same model as your lift, keep looking. Also, make sure they have insurance. If something breaks on the road, you don’t want to be the one paying for it. I work with a couple of transport companies that I trust, and I always send clients their way if they don’t have their own gear. It might cost a little extra, but it’s worth not dealing with a broken lift or a legal mess.
Wait, let’s talk about common mistakes to avoid. I hear these all the time: First, not lubricating the joints before folding. If the hydraulic joints are dry, they can get stuck, and you might bend something trying to force them. Second, not doing a pre-trip check. Every single time you stop for gas, get out and check the straps. They can loosen from vibration, especially on rough roads. I once had a client who tied down his lift, hit a pothole, and two straps broke. If he’d checked at the first stop, he would’ve fixed it before anything bad happened. Third, overloading the trailer. A lot of people stack other stuff on the flatbed with the lift—tools, a generator, whatever. That adds extra weight, which can make the trailer sway. Keep the flatbed clear except for the lift, and if you need to move other stuff, rent a separate trailer.
Now, unloading at the job site. This isn’t the end. When you get to where you’re going, don’t just back the trailer up and jump off. Find a flat, solid surface. Gravel might seem fine, but if it’s soft, the trailer can sink, and the lift will tip. Concrete is best, or compacted gravel. Then, when you drive the lift off the trailer, do it slow. Use the lift’s own controls, not the tow truck’s winch. Make sure the trailer is level, and the ramp is secured. I’ve seen ramps slide out from under the lift because they weren’t tied down, so double-check that before driving off. Once the lift is on the ground, do a quick walkaround. Check for any dents, loose parts, or hydraulic leaks. If you see something, note it, and get it fixed before using the lift. Better to spend 10 minutes checking than an hour dealing with a broken machine on the job.
As a supplier, I’ve seen every scenario when it comes to moving these lifts. Some clients do it perfectly, no issues. Others cut corners, and end up with a mess that costs them time and money. That’s why I always tell new buyers: Don’t rush the transport. Take the time to prep the lift, get the right gear, hire a pro if you need to, and drive safe. The job site will be there when you get there, and your lift will work the way it’s supposed to.
If you’re in the market for an artic boom lift, or you need help with transport solutions, hit me up. I’ve got the machines, the trusted transport partners, and the know-how to make sure your machine gets to you safely and on time. No hassle, no hidden fees, just straight talk.
Used Scissor Lift References:
- Occupational Safety and Health Administration. (2021). "Powered Industrial Trucks and Aerial Lift Transport Guidelines." OSHA 29 CFR 1926 Subpart CC.
- Association of Equipment Manufacturers. (2022). "Articulating Boom Lift Transport and Handling Best Practices." AEM Equipment Safety Standards.
- Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration. (2020). "Heavy Equipment Transport Compliance Guide." FMCSA Publication 38.
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